Fall Dining Sampler: The Harvest is In.

Squash soup.

Pittsburgh is finally getting a little chill in the air (and a fall tornado!). Autumn is a good time of year for dining. The summer’s harvest is in and Pittsburgh restaurants, both upscale and more casual, are using those fresh ingredients to full effect. Here are a few you may find of interest. C. Prentiss Orr (C.P.O) contributed to this Sampler.

Casbah Continues to Deliver

It was my mom’s birthday so we had a family dinner at one of her favorite restaurants—the culinary landmark, Casbah. It was a Friday evening and the restaurant was very busy. Known for their creative dishes using the freshest of ingredients, Casbah is also known for top-notch service. Such was the case with our server Adam. There are other added touches to dining here including a bread basket with two different spreads (one was butter and the second was a yogurt based offering) and a delicious salted caramel for each dinner served with the check. Often top quality food and service is pricey and that can be the case here, too, but at Casbah one can make a meal of small plate offerings and a glass of good wine. As a starter we all shared a few appetizer spreads (chickpea hummus, baba ghanoush, and red pepper muhummara) served with warm pieces of grilled chickpea flatbread. I enjoyed one of the costlier offerings—Elysian Fields lamb shank, served with toasted cous cous, fennel slaw, pickled mustard seed, and lamb jus. It paired perfectly with a glass of red wine—Barbera d’Asti, La Gironda, Asti, Piedmont, Italy 2021 DOC. The birthday girl enjoyed her filet mignon and even gave me a few bites of her delectable vanilla crème brûlée. Casbah Mediterranean Kitchen & Wine Bar, 229 South Highland Ave., Shadyside. (R.H.)

Dining Slopeside at the Bavarian Lounge at Seven Springs 

Buffalo wings and bratwurst at Seven Springs’ Bavarian Lounge.

On a sunny Friday afternoon in October, my brother Howard and I decided to take a drive to the mountains and have lunch at Seven Springs. Soon after exiting the turnpike at Donegal we stopped at a really good fruit and vegetable store, Pletcher’s Farm Market. I had been there before and enjoyed Chambersburg peaches, but wasn’t familiar with the pear and apple varieties from this locale. Pletcher’s had several and I bought some. They were very good too. While there I spied packages of Dutch Touch Sourdough Pretzels made by Maple Lane Farm Market in Carlisle. I bought a bag even though all the bags were labeled, “Extra Salty.” I’m glad I did, they were the best hard pretzels I’ve ever had. I looked at the ingredients, and found the pretzels were made with butter and some brown sugar. Being made with butter instead of vegetable oil gave them a rich, savory flavor. The brown sugar was indiscernible as a stand alone ingredient, but added to the overall flavor. Pletcher’s may be closed for the season, but you can order the pretzels on the Web.

Bavarian Lounge’s lemon blueberry cheesecake.

We continued on to Seven Springs and dined slopeside in the beautifully rustic Bavarian Lounge. I chose the pound of chicken wings (about eight good size pieces) with the mild buffalo sauce. With Oktoberfest in the air, I added the beer glazed bratwurst grilled with caramelized onions. All were very tasty. For dessert I thoroughly enjoyed the lemon blueberry cheesecake. It was a perfectly balanced dessert with the light lemon and blueberry flavors playing against the dense, delicious cheesecake. A perfect way to end the meal. Alex provided exceptional service. The Bavarian Lounge also sports an outdoor dining area. It was fun to see all the slopes I struggled skiing on as a teen. Seven Springs Mountain Resort, 777 Waterwheel Drive Seven Springs, PA. (R.H.)

Butterjoint: The Joint is Jumping with Flavor 

Fancy Crispy Chicken Sandwich.

After an outing with my mom and brother Howard we stopped at Butterjoint in Oakland for a late lunch. The restaurant used to be a smaller, popular adjoining sister restaurant to Legume. After the Covid 19 pandemic Butterjoint expanded into the bigger space. The restaurant features creative dishes, friendly attentive staff and big windows that look out onto North Craig Street. We all shared a Pickle Plate (cauliflower, daikon, shishito peppers, sott’aceto, miso egg) and Fried Cheese Balls. The Pickle Plate had good visual appeal and was delicious and different. The Fried Cheese Balls were very good, but the order size felt a little small for nine dollars. For my main I had the Fancy Crispy Chicken Sandwich (house brined chicken thighs, pickled onion, huckleberry bbq sauce, lettuce) and French fries. The huckleberry bbq sauce was quite distinctive. My mom ordered squash soup (Asian pear, miso, ginger, coconut milk, and topped with toasted pepitas). The soup was smooth and savory with an exotic and pleasant flavor. Ingredients and dishes change seasonally. I capped off the meal with a piece of chocolate truffle cake while mom enjoyed a root beer float. Rachel provided fantastic service. Butterjoint features a large bar in the establishment’s original space. 208 N. Craig St. (R.H.)

Butterjoint’s pickle plate.

Mullaney’s Harp & Fiddle: Fish & Chips & Whiskey

Fish and chips and a Writer’s Tears.

I had been out running errands one rainy, chilly late afternoon and hadn’t had lunch. I decided to tuck into Mullaney’s Harp & Fiddle for a drink and some sustenance. I ordered Fish-n-Chips and a Writers’ Tears Irish whiskey neat with a water backup. Mullaney’s Fish-n-Chips, which is a very large, wild-caught cod file, was lightly coated in a Guinness beer batter, deep fried and served with fresh cut fries. It was one of the best pieces of fish I’ve had in a fish and chips order in a very long time. The fish was crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. The beer batter was very savory with a slight sweetness to it. Other items of interest on the Mullaney’s menu include: Guinness lamb stew, shepard’s pie, short rib dinner, and bangers & mash. One will also find more universal fare as well, including burgers, bbq chicken sandwich, Reubens, and Rachels, and a fish sandwich. Their assortment of Irish whiskeys is quite impressive and they’ll be quite happy to pull you a perfect pint of Guinness and Harp or several other brands. Shauna provided friendly, efficient service. Live music is featured on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights. Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: 3 to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 1a.m. (R.H.)

Lawrence Hall: Community Dining in a Popular Community

One of several dining concepts that have been inordinately successful in Pittsburgh is the “social hall” wherein large tables beckon smaller groups to choose plates from three or more kitchens, order drinks from a common bar, and share meals and memories in a massive room. Federal Galley is doing it on the North Side. So is City Kitchen in East Liberty. And, now in Lawrenceville, you can sit down, order from your phone, and chat away with table mates you might not have known before entering the hall. You can also order at the individual restaurant’s counters. Runners bring your drinks and plates to you. This is no food mall, but a festival of treats. Currently, Lawrence Hall offers four menus prepared by Cuddy’s Soul Food, Loaded, La Palapa, and Toma, respectively. Cuddy’s offers wings, ribs, oxtail, and turkey drums, just for example, while Loaded has smash burgers, dogs, fried chicken sandwiches, and, of course, lots of potatoes—fried or baked—that are, yes, loaded. At La Palapa you can choose from a wide offering of tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, salads, and salsas.  And Toma has house-made Italian fare like buffalo chicken arancini, parmesan meatballs, pasta, subs, and even Sicilian pizza. All beverages and spirits are concocted at Dear James (an ode to Captain Lawrence for whom the neighborhood was named) which prides itself with margaritas, martinis and a Martinez, Bloody Marys and a Bloody Maria, and all kinds of craft cocktails and mindful mock-tails. 

The fun (and fear) of social hall dining is not knowing how crazy busy any night might be. Sometimes there’s plenty of room, other times it’s a good wait.  But Lawrence Hall is a good bet. There’s no shortage of good “people-watching” along Butler Street and, unlike the North Side, there’s plenty of Plan B options nearby. Open Monday through midday Sunday. 4609 Butler Street. (C.P.O.)

Braddock Public House is in a Superior Spot

(L. to r.) Spam Musubi, Pork Tonkatsu Sandwich, and a perfectly poured General Braddock’s IPA.

When Superior Motors ran out of gas (or was it the PR hype, Covid, or costly cuisine?) this off-the-beaten-path dining locale had a friendly neighbor––and savior––to come to its rescue. Stepping in, Brew Gentlemen filled the bill with some interim appetizers, fortified with an awesome beer selection and limited cocktail menu. Today, however, Braddock Public House is a destination well worth the drive. The location is, first of all, a mesmerizing visit. Situated directly across from the Edgar Thomson Works, the still and very much active steel mill spews gasses aglow with the fire that has lit Pittsburgh skies for decades. Inside, Braddock Public House offers a cuisine just as exciting. The menu offers Asian infusions, like Asian/Hawaiian fare sizzled with Spam glazed, rustic carrots, or a deeply charred burger adorned with Maui onions and gooey gouda. This is food no iron puddler ever ate, but it’s not inconsistent with local and more modern tastes. Times change and that’s the glory of it all. Complement all of the incredible cuisine with an impressive selection of beers and cocktails, and, well, you’ll be further amazed that Braddock Public House supports the dramatic arts, as well as local artists (Braddock is home to many!)  Barebones productions is housed in the same facility. Yes, you could schedule a night of thrilling theater and delicious dining, but why pile on? (It could be too much for one glowing night in Pittsburgh.)

There are too many great neighborhoods, all of which—and equally—share in the pride Pittsburgh so deserves.  Make it your destiny to savor each, but make it your destination soon to savor Braddock Public House.  Open Wednesdays through Sunday afternoon. 1211 Braddock Avenue.
(C.P.O)

Stuntpig: No Helmet Needed

Half of a Madonia’s Muffuletta (l.) and half of an Italian beef sandwich from Stunt Pig.

Stuntpig’s logo is a cartoon pig wearing a helmet. You won’t need protective gear to dine there, just bring your appetite. Stuntpig is situated next to Coldstone Creamery in the cozy storeroom that Bull River Tacos formerly occupied. On my visit I ordered the Italian beef and the Madonia’s Muffuletta sandwiches for takeout. The Italian beef sandwich was a hot sandwich with juicy, lean roast beef piled high and topped with spicy giardiniera. Also served heated was the muffuletta which sported smoked ham, hot sopressatta, pepperoni, mortadella, sharp provolone and olive salad pressed on a Big Marty’s sesame bun. Both were very flavorful. Other items of interest are Mr. Orange (smoked and pulled chicken with spicy piri piri sauce, briny cucumbers, chimichurri aioli), Lil Jawn (Italian roast pork marinated in sicilian oregano, fennel and orange, grilled broccoli rabe, sharp provolone, hot pepper mayo, pressed), pig wings, perogies, and jerk chicken wings). Sandwich offerings change occasionally. While waiting for your order one can sip a free chilled hibiscus water from a dispenser. Stuntpig is open Tuesdays through Saturdays. The business also operates a food truck of the same name. 1707 Murray Ave., Squirrel Hill. (R.H.)

Photos: Rick Handler

Rick Handler is the executive producer of Entertainment Central.

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