D.C., Baltimore, and Ocean City, MD.: Crabcakes, Kayaking, U.S.S. Constellation, Indians, French Food and Wine

Ocean City, Maryland, beach and pier.

My fraternity brother (Alpha Tau Omega, ATO), college roommate, and one of my best friends, Dane, and wife Gretchen, invited me to visit them for a weekend at their home outside Salisbury, Maryland, about 20 minutes from Ocean City. Salisbury is a historic town that is the location for the University of Maryland at Salisbury, where Dane works. Gretchen works at University of Maryland Eastern Shore.

Fear of Chesapeake Bay Bridges

The trip down was smooth. It takes a little over six and one half hours to get there from Pittsburgh with normal non-rush-hour traffic conditions. One thing that always makes me apprehensive is crossing the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Past trips, many years ago, were made by an old iron bridge and now there’s a second, newer, higher bridge. I wound up on the latter by accident. I was in the left lane when approaching the old bridge, not even realizing they had built a second bridge. Well, the lane I was in takes you up a long, winding single lane ramp with only a guardrail on each side up to the newer bridge. The newer span is 379 feet high which is equal to 10 stories high.

When you get up to the bridge you’re suddenly driving against two lanes of opposing traffic with no divider or emergency pull offs. I (very) firmly gripped the wheel and carried on. You could also see the lower, older bridge close by over the side. I was very happy to be on the other end of the bridge.

Love of High Quality Crab Cakes

Things got better after arriving at Gretchen and Dane’s house. After catching up a bit we headed out to Fratelli’s, one of their favorite restaurants in Salisbury. They are known for their Italian food and crabcakes. I had two broiled crabcakes and they were wonderful! Sweet, succulent, lump crabmeat, a little seasoning, and just enough filler to bind everything together. I had been wanting really good crab cakes and my first stop was highly successful.

The next day another fraternity brother, Bob, who lives two hours north in Wilmington, Delaware, was supposed to come down and join us, but his car broke down about midway between. Dane and I drove to pick him up and take him back to Wilmington. Upon arrival we first went to his apartment which was in a high-rise overlooking the Christina River. Across the river were older historic buildings with what seemed to be a lot happening outside with people and a band. There is a riverwalk there with various restaurants. We walked across a historic bridge (Senator John E. Reilly, Sr. Bridge). Bob took Dane and me to dinner at a large brew pub on the Riverwalk, Iron Hill Brewery and Restaurant. It is a two story restaurant and brewery with a big porch-like dining area on the second floor overlooking the river. The riverfront area had once been the site of industrial plants, but much like Pittsburgh, has since been repurposed into more recreational uses. The food, service, beer, and conversation were all very good. Afterwards Dane and I headed back to Salisbury. It was an unexpected, fun, trip to Wilmington.

Kayaking with Dane (center) on Sinepuxent Bay.

The next day Dane loaded up two kayaks and a paddleboard and we, with Gretchen, headed to Assateague Island National Seashore, just south of Ocean City. As you may know, Assateague Island is where herds of wild horses roam free. We saw horses very close to us in the boat launch parking area. There are Atlantic beaches, boating, biking, picnics and bonfires. Dane and I launched the kayaks. Gretchen sunbathed and then waded out into the Bay and shot some photos of Dane and I paddling around. I have been whitewater rafting, canoeing, and jet skiing, but had never been on a kayak. It was so much fun that now I can’t wait to get out again. There are bike and kayak rentals available on the island.

Since I was going to be in the Ocean City area, I had booked a two-night stay closer to the beach. The period that I was there was the height of the peak summer season (mid-August) and the hotel room rates were correspondingly high. So I stayed at a hotel across the bridge from the southern tip of Ocean City. 

I went to Ocean City Beach the next two days. Ocean City, Maryland, has a very good boardwalk complete with all the surfside attractions—ice cream, kettle corn, fudge, French fries, amusement games and rides, etc. When there, make sure to visit Dumser’s Dairyland. There are seven locations. Their ice cream and soft serve flavors are splendid. I enjoyed their raspberry ice cream a couple of times. Another fantastic flavor I tried was the watermelon soft serve. All very refreshing after some hot beach time. In retrospect I probably should have paid the extra money and stayed on the beach. That way I wouldn’t have had to pay for parking and been closer to a home base. Also important if you’re out drinking at night (I was not). 

Crabcake and soft shelled crab at the Crabcake Factory.

Two other Ocean City highlights included the Original Crabcake Factory and Seacrets. In researching the best crabcakes in Ocean City, I saw the Original Crabcake Factory listed highly. There was one near my hotel and I headed there for an early dinner one evening. The restaurant had a menu offering of one broiled crab cake and one soft shell crab dinner. Their crabcake was another winner! The soft shell crab not so much. I think it’s me though. I had tried a soft shell crab years ago and didn’t like it. I tried one again and still don’t like them.

Seacrets grilled watermelon salad.

Dane and another friend of mine had mentioned that Seacrets was a good place to go. After hitting the beach one day I headed there. It is located about a 20 minute drive from the southern part of Ocean City and situated on a bay beach. There is a sister location in Jamaica. This location is a restaurant and bar with indoor and outdoor seating, tiki bars, music stages and a distillery. One can even sit at tables and chairs that are actually in the water.

You can dine with your feet in the bay at Seacrets.

I sat at the tiki hut and sipped a frozen rum runner. It was powerful and quickly quenched my thirst. I was not too hungry, but in the mood for something light. The grilled watermelon salad fit the bill. After all, the Delmarva peninsula is one of the nation’s biggest watermelon regions, I had recently learned. A large slice of grilled (with char marks) watermelon was on a bed of leafy greens and drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette and goat cheese. It was a refreshing repast. Not willing to chance another rum runner, I enjoyed a Seacrets beer, one that is specially brewed for them. Cold and refreshing too.

Sand dunes at Rehoboth Beach, Delaware.

The next day I checked out and headed north to Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, to check that area out a little bit. Liie Ocean City, it has a beautiful beach, but is less developed and with sand dunes and sea oats near the boardwalk.

Historic Baltimore

USS Constellation.

I then headed back across the Bay Bridge (sigh) and to my overnight stay at Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. Sometimes on trips we get a serendipitous surprise. Mine was when I got close to my hotel. I saw a large Civil War-era sailing ship in the Inner Harbor very near where I was staying. As I drove closer my heart beat with joy as I saw it was the USS Constellation, a navy warship that I had just watched a documentary about.

Cannon deck of the USS Constellation.

That night I went to Phillips Seafood Restaurant on the Inner Harbor. Phillips is one of the largest U.S. packers and purveyors of crab and other seafood products. And yes, I ordered a crab cake dinner. It was another phenomenal crab cake. I had a wonderful server, Ruslon. He had emigrated from Belarus years ago. I was telling him I knew of Phillips canned crab products. He said that the owner is sitting at a nearby table. I went over and said hello; he was very nice too. For dessert I had a piece of Coconut Cream Smith Island Cake with whipped cream and coconut shavings. It was very tasty. The cake is a historic dessert that originated on Smith Island, an island in Chesapeake Bay between Maryland and Virginia. It is traditionally a multi-layered cake, often 10 thin layers with alternating cake and icing layers. It was delicious. Smith Island Cake is the official dessert of the state of Maryland.

Smith Island Cake at Phillips Seafood.

The next morning I toured the USS Constellation; a sub, the USS Torsk; and a lighthouse ship, the Chesapeake. All are available for touring through Historic Ships in Baltimore. It is a wonderful historic experience. There’s another ship too, USCG Cutter 37, a Coast Guard ship, that served at Pearl Harbor at the advent of World War II. Before I started my tour, I was talking to an engaging local history hunter (see his Youtube channel, Electrifying History) who filled me in on some additional history of Baltimore. The National Aquarium is in the Inner Harbor too, but time constraints didn’t allow me to visit.

The torpedo room of the USS Torsk submarine.

Before leaving Baltimore that afternoon, I drove around Fells Point, a historic area of Baltimore on the waterfront that has been developing for years now. It has many historic buildings and streets full of small shops, restaurants, and bars.

D.C.: Fine Food and Fun

Beautiful historic buildings near the White House.

Washington, D.C., was next on my late summer “journey of discovery.” My hotel was close to the White House, Dupont Circle, and 14th Street. My hotels in Baltimore and Washington were very reasonable. As the beach rates were high the city rates were low. After relaxing for a while, I headed out to a restaurant I wanted to try on 14th Street, Barcelona. It was packed, so I crossed the street and entered Le Diplomate. It was packed too. There were a few seats open at the bar, but it was very close to the bar’s garbage can and after a few moments of clanking bottles going in the garbage I exited stage right. 

Vin Sur Vingt Wine Bar.

As I walked down 14th Street a several-hundred-person bike ride went by. I stopped to watch it, as did a server at Vin Sur Vingt (“VSV”) Wine Bar. I said hello to her and asked for a menu. She was extremely nice. After looking at the menu I thanked her and continued my walk. After walking for a little while more I returned to the restaurant and asked to sit at the sidewalk cafe part of the restaurant and asked her to be my server. Her name is Celle and she is originally from Argentina.

Saucisson à L’Ail

It was a gorgeous summer evening. After perusing the menu I chose for an appetizer the Saucisson à L’Ail (charcuterie plate with thin slices of garlic sausage, tiny sweet pickles, apple slices, an apricot, Dijon mustard, and a basket with slices of fresh baguette). The food and its arrangement were both delicious and visually appealing. I paired that with a Moselle, Château de Vaux Les Gryphées 2021 (from the Alsace region of France). For my entree I had the Poulet Archiduc (slices of roasted chicken in a mushroom cream sauce). Also very savory.

Poulet Archiduc.

I tried several other wines including a glass of Anjou, Château de la Roche Bousseau 2020 (from the Loire region of France). I ended the night with the rich and creamy Mousse au Chocolat (dark Belgian chocolate mousse) and a glass of champagne. I’m not super knowledgeable about wine, but utilized some of my knowledge and input from Celle to make some very good and inexpensive selections. It was a magical meal with fine food and wine and outstanding, friendly service.

Mousse au Chocolat.

The next day I walked to the White House and then caught the Metro (subway) at McPherson Square station. A friendly station attendant helped me choose the right transit card from the automated machines. I rode the Metro to Federal Center SW. From there I walked several blocks to the National Museum of the American Indian, which is just several blocks away from the U.S. Capitol building. The Capitol is always a beautiful, imposing sight to see.

Flags of American Indian nations hang at the National Museum of the American Indian.

The museum architecture was a sight to see as well. It has the appearance of a five story, contemporary, brown adobe building with an overhang at one end. The multilevel museum has a large rotunda, much like the Capitol, and a long ramp descends along the inside of the rotunda from the fifth to first floor. A skylight on the roof lets sunlight in. Off the ramp at each level are exhibit rooms. Historical exhibits include Indian Chief eagle feather headdresses, flags of various Indian nations, Indian artifacts and cultural items. There were also exhibits detailing treaties, Indians serving in the military, Indian influences on American culture and graphic design; there was even an exhibit on General George Custer.

American Indian influence on popular culture.

After walking the museum I sat in the rotunda on a smooth stone bench that went approximately three-quarters of the way around the large rotunda, almost as if for a large tribal council meeting. As I sat relaxing, I looked up at the skylight. I noticed it had a pattern on it and the sunlight was projected through the pattern onto the top side of the dome. After staring at it for a moment I realized that it was the pattern of a dreamcatcher!

Dreamcatcher skylight in atrium.

Afterwards I rode the Metro out to Silver Spring, Maryland, and took a little walk around. Then rode it to the Dupont Circle stop. There I walked around some more, looking for an interesting  place to have a late lunch. I found such a place at All Day by Kramers. The restaurant has an outdoor cafe and indoor greenhouse seating areas. It was a hot summer day and I had been walking a lot, so I sat inside in the air conditioned greenhouse part. Being that I was on somewhat of a seafood trek, I chose the Maine lobster roll.

Lobster roll, French Fries, and citrus broccolini.

The sandwich came with French fries and I also ordered a side of citrus broccolini for some healthful vegetation. Lobster rolls, I’ve noticed, come generally two ways: heated with butter or cold like a lobster salad with mayo and light seasoning. Kramers was the latter, lobster salad style. It was delicious and a very enjoyable sandwich on a hot day. I paired it with a glass of French La Patience Chardonnay. The broccolini was good, always smart to get some fiber. It was a much needed counterbalance to my dessert—Triple Chocolate Devil’s Food Cake with chocolate sauce, chocolate buttercream, strawberries, and whipped cream. One of the chocolates was little pieces of milk chocolate sprinkled on the cake. It was so rich, delicious, and large that I couldn’t finish it. I got a to-go box so that I could enjoy the other half for a snack later on. It was one of the best pieces of cake I’ve had in a long time.

Triple Chocolate Devil’s Food Cake.

The next morning I went to historic Georgetown and walked around. There are many independent shops and boutiques. I stopped at Mason’s Famous Lobster Rolls and had them pack two sandwiches to go and put in my cooler for my mom later that evening. On my way back to Pittsburgh I stopped to see my little brother in the fraternity, Reed, and his wife Gina, in Mt. Airy, Maryland. After chatting for a little bit, Reed and I headed to Concetta’s Main Street Bistro to pick up some sandwiches. On the way we cruised in hot style in his 1969 Pontiac Firebird. We both had the Reuben sandwiches with a mix of corned beef and pastrami. It was a grilled delight.

The author (left), Reed, and his 1969 Pontiac Firebird.

This Delmarva-Baltimore-Washington, D.C. swing was another fantastic trip! Many destinations visited—Salisbury, Ocean City, Wilmington, Rehoboth, Baltimore, Washington, and Mt. Airy. Many interesting sights, friendly people, and delicious meals.

Story and photos by Rick Handler, executive producer of Entertainment Central.

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